The last few weeks have been full on for me. Work has really been overwhelming as groups keep booking and filling up all the space on the greens. I have been just named manager at work, which basically means get a dollar pay rise. Champagne baths, here I am come. Even with the advent of more hours (and I guess, more responsibilities), I have been able to fit in some me time or stop masquerading as a worker and get back to my roots as a traveler. I needed to experience a real Australian past time: Old Fashioned Gambling. Last week, Sam and I went down to Melbourne for a couple of reasons: she wanted to see her parents; my mom is teaching at a University in Melbourne so I had the chance to see her in working/living environment; the parents could meet each other; but more importantly, the Horse Races in Melbourne. It seems only fitting that in this times of financial crisis and recession, my primary objective in flying to Melbourne is to carelessly throw my money away at the horses races. This feels like the prudent action for a struggling writer and part time bartender. Recession does not affect this breed of canned soup eating, and water drinking folk.
We left at the eye blurring time of 5 15 in morning on Friday and I spent the day writing and carousing around my mom's apartment. I had an early night in anticipation of having a long hot day at the races on Saturday.
A little history, Caulfield Cup is one of the major races in the time known as Spring Carnival. Spring Carnival is held in Melbourne and is pretty much an institution in Melbourne. The carnival is not what we imagine a carnival is: carnies (well, the jockeys come close), hoop tosses, bad corn dogs, and a queasy feeling from the rides that may or may not fall apart after each go around. The Carnival represents horse racing at its finest. It takes its roots all the back to 1890's where, in the old English tradition, high society would come out to parade around in the latest styles. It runs from October 1st until November 19th and is highlighted by major races, Caulfield Cup, Oaks Day, Darby Days and finally the big cahuna, Melbourne Cup. The races are similar to The Kentucky Derby, Preakness and Belmont Stakes, but people actually care what happens. Melbourne Cup is equivalent to the Super Bowl except that it is a public holiday in Victoria ( it might as well be in New South Wales, NSW, as no work is accomplished in Sydney) and betting is more than encouraged, it is forced upon you.
For all races, men and women dress in their Sunday best. Men wearing the latest suit fashion, women the latest designer dresses. The best part is the hats that the women wear. Like rappers, the hats are an extension of their attire and usually attract more attention than the dress itself. Racing and fashion are inexorably tied to these events which is a far cry from our sense of dress at the Preakness (Just Youtube Preakness, you'll understand). The hats are an amalgam of weeding veils, top hats, yamikas, beanies, yet some of them are actually tasteful. Most of the time, I had to stifle my laughter, but my mouth was curled with a incredulous smile as a woman struts by with a hat that even at a costume party is ridiculous.
As for the racing, betting is intertwined with Australian culture. It comes from the British/convict personality. Gambling is a huge problem in Australia, especially in NSW, and one can see why with such an emphasis on racing. This is not a charge against Australian culture at all. I believe that it is different, it seems more out in the open as betting here is one the more old fashioned events: racing, sporting events, cards and slot machines. There is not the crazy online betting schemes that we have in the states , like who will score first? How many times an announcer will cough during the Super Bowl? Or how many times will McCain change the direction of his campaign etc.
I had to go see this event first hand as working in the Bowling club, I am familiar with the betting culture and Melbourne cup. Sam and I decided to go to the Caulfield Cup. There are about 15 races during the day, with the Caulfield Cup being the top billed race. I dressed up in a shirt and tie (pretty sure for the first time in 10 years). Sam had a great veil/hat configuration (not that I am biased) and we went off to Caulfield Racing Track. There I was overwhelmed with all the young people who dressed up. This was not your typical college age gathering. Aside from the people stumbling around from the heat and alcohol, the ambiance was rich with classiness. I made sure to cap my betting to 50 dollars and kept that promise as the day wore on. As any event with a mass of people, the racing takes a backseat. What is more important is judging, critiquing, drinking and betting with all the other people in your area. We bought general admission tickets, but there is the option of going to a tent. Tickets are 200 dollars and I pretty sure, women are required to wear more outlandish hats (for Melbourne Cup prices sky rocket to 1000.) Food and Drink are included along with a better seat to laugh at all the poor losers in General Admission. I loved being in General Admission, bookies on the grass, guys and girls dressed to the nines, betting booths in the clubhouse, long queues for food and alcohol and not a single person paying attention to the races.
By the end of the day, I was down 150 (including drinks) which in the betting world is a smashing success. More importantly I was happy to envelope myself in something that is Aussie. Also, I needed a practice run in actually wearing, you know "real world clothes."
Melbourne Cup is next week on our Tuesday so I am encouraging you to go online and take a look at all the pictures of the fashionable people. Oh, by the way, there is a race as well.
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Side note: Hitch actually wore a shirt and tie for his 25th birthday at bowls. There are pictures to prove it.
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