Well, I am finally better. In a hilarious act of karmic backlash, as I left Delhi, imparting words that weren't a ringing endorsement of India, I began to feel achy, tired and generally not well. India decided that if I did not like the country then feel its wrath. I am here to make amends: India is awesome, just a super place. At no point was I ever frustrated, blown away by noises. It was like a constant skip in the park.
I decided to nip this feeling of general crapiness in the bud by taking a fever reducer before boarding the plane. We had 22 hours of flight time from Delhi to Chicago so I wanted to feel ok- also, taking a fever reducer doubles as a pain masker which is so important for my back and well being. This was the final time I would feel good for 50 hours. I had a tremendous fever, the shivers and had a small band thumping behind my eyes and in my head. I would run the gamut of temperatures: from Arctic to the Sahara. It was, without a doubt, the worst flight I have ever been through. I set the record of trips to the bathroom as I was hydrated to the max. People probably assumed I was drunk as I slumped forward, eyes bloodshot from the pain, taking meticulous steps in the row towards the bathroom.
We arrived in Chicago and I still felt badly to the point where my fever had not subsided. I finally decided that this was not normal and ambled to the doctor's office in Chicago. I am not sure what was a better idea. Be sick in India: treatment would be cheap, but most of the time, I would be a little nervous with the unknown. Or be sick in US: treatment would be above standard and price would be even more above standard. Seeing the bill really makes me redefine my stance on prolonging the getting a job dance.
The storm has passed luckily and I am feeling heaps better. With the Duncans, I have seen Niagara, Motown Museum, a Cubs and Bulls game. Chicago has been a beautiful host for my re-entry. I am happy to be here yet I still feel like an outsider. I am not entirely comfortable being back. I am not ready to blend in again. I can't shake the feeling. It may be, in part, that I know I am going to be leaving soon again, but I feel there is more than knowing that I am transient guest. I am still at a loss of words to expound more, I need more time to mesh again with the US culture to paint the right picture.
Thursday, April 16, 2009
Monday, April 6, 2009
Final Musings
This is the final indo-instalment for this mini publication. I am writing with complete equanimity since we leave tonight. While there will be countless other tales, tribulations and achievements, the chapter on India is closed. It is true what the locals say, "In India, anything is possible:" You can drive down the wrong side of the road, buy anything, do anything; but as the shopkeeper in Jodhpur stated "Indians have not digested foreigners yet." There seems to be a window that is closed to us. We are experiencing the veneer of Indian life, but only in small doses. As for the main recipe of Indian culture and society, this will always be locked away. That is what the culture dictates, travelers are yet to be positioned Indian social stratification. I believe, that it will never happen. Although India, on the surface, appears to be an open book, what I have seen is that they are fiercely wary of outside influence, only reluctantly accepting foreign interest.
Presently, Delhi did not get a fair shake from us. We arrived in the capital city rundown, sick and weary. I believe that things would have been different if we knew that there were two weeks more to travel and we had to soldier on, but the reality of leaving was much to strong to continue the facade of !ncredible !ndia. This is not a condemnation of our travels, quite the contrary, we have enjoyed our time here immensely. We have learned more about each other- our likes, dislikes, aspirations and pitfalls. All of these have been thrown into the fire that is traveling and that is India and the outcome is a sheen welding of strength and understanding. Moreover, we have gained valuble insight on what makes Indian society tick.
From the outset, I will apologize with you all. This blog will lack the coherent, clarity and cohesive components that my other blogs have remotely displayed. This is quite apropos to being here in India where these three C's, when applied to everyday activities, are in limited- almost extinct- supply.
Even before touching down in India, the trip began with Sam and her meticulous planning almost two years ago. She had always harboured dreams of going, finding enlightenment and reliving the traveler's life free from want and desire. Her aspirations to travel were ostensibly shelved due to her inhumane work schedule and other time commitments- and I would like to think meeting me was a larger factor. I, on the other hand, knew that India was spelled I N D I A and that was basically my background. It was not until I traveled to China that my focus was redirected really to India as a destination. One traveler succinctly stated that "if I thought China is crazy, wait till you see India." There it was: the seed of adventure, mystery and fear was planted.
I do agree, as does Sam, with this statement from this clairvoyant traveler; India, as many travelers bemoan or exalt, is frustratingly crazy: the gamut of emotions ranging from elation, sadness, animosity, understanding, obstinacy, withdrawal, desire and acceptance. A mosaic of feelings that usually are experienced before mid-day. As for coming here, I believe that we were searching for that essence of India that we heard so much about: attainment of enlightenment. However, I have felt nothing of the sort. What I do feel is more battle hardened, a crafty veteran of travel, which could be enlightenment. India provokes your deepest sensations and forces you to "come alive," so to speak. I was aware of my sphere of consciousness the entire time I traveled here: constantly on guard- good and bad- and entirely enveloped by all senses at once. As Wayne, my English friend aptly said, "India is like running a gauntlet."It forces you to interact on a daily basis. I found this deeply troubling sometimes since my interaction invariably involved people in poverty or people who just wanted money from case and point. In no way does my six weeks provide me with an insider's scope to what it is like to be in India. I realize we traveled the well beaten path by many and our experience was inexorably a traveler's experience on the tourist path where these dealings with the aforementioned characters occur on a regular basis. Yet, this does not weaken my perspective or make my time here worthless. Our trip opened the debate to being human, interacting on the human level. It is hard to shun a three year beggar under the auspices that giving two rupees only furthers their dependence on obtaining money through begging. It is hard to be so stoic in front of these people, so cold and numb to their plight. On the other side, I was shown great care and genuine concern for my well being by many people, strangers or people working in tourism. Indians took special interest in our travels and were quick to ask how we liked India. If any answer had slight negative undertones, these people took this as an offense equal to treason that we have had a bad time and I am fairly certain that, on the drop of a hat, would make sure that we did enjoy being here if we let them. As one person explained the mentality is that " we (travelers) are guests here and it is important for us to treat you as such." There was such genuine interest in our well being that it was almost smothering.
I don't subscribe to the notion that India is tough place to be. I look back at my earlier musings and apprehension and smile at my preoccupations before coming here. I know that I have come along way; as yesterday we met two English guys who just arrived. They looked as we did when we first arrived: uncertain, timid, lost and exuded a certain oh my god what have we gotten ourselves into vibe. We weren't any different. We imparted as much information, tricks of the trade, to ease their emotional tumult, and in a way, this seemed slightly cathartic. All the frustrations were compiled into hilarious anecdotes and advisories and I have begun to appreciate being here.
I think that I built up the notion that India will change you . I was, and still am, resistant to that idea. This has not been any different that any other place I have been in terms of annoying and enthralling instances. India has strengthened my resolve to go live abroad for more time- I am frothing at the mouth to go to Latin America. Undoubtedly, traveling to India has tested my every fiber and now, I crave a little home cooking. My time here has made me appreciate the little things about being in Australia or in the US, but on the flip side, has made me revise what is important. This has been another fundamental step towards (gulp) maturation. I wouldn't go out on a limb to say I am definitely going to return to India in the near future, but being here has supplied me with more knowledge which would have been ignored by me.
So, it is not with a heavy heart that I leave here- the heaviness can be attributed to the goodies I got for people- I depart with a stronger resolve to continue to test my ability to adapt and understand cultures, but more importantly, understand where I fit in this grand scheme. I know this will all help in the mythical outcome that is something that starts with "J" and rhymes with "OB."
As for the next stop on the Duncan-Hitch train, Chicago. Let's see how re immersion fairs us.
Presently, Delhi did not get a fair shake from us. We arrived in the capital city rundown, sick and weary. I believe that things would have been different if we knew that there were two weeks more to travel and we had to soldier on, but the reality of leaving was much to strong to continue the facade of !ncredible !ndia. This is not a condemnation of our travels, quite the contrary, we have enjoyed our time here immensely. We have learned more about each other- our likes, dislikes, aspirations and pitfalls. All of these have been thrown into the fire that is traveling and that is India and the outcome is a sheen welding of strength and understanding. Moreover, we have gained valuble insight on what makes Indian society tick.
From the outset, I will apologize with you all. This blog will lack the coherent, clarity and cohesive components that my other blogs have remotely displayed. This is quite apropos to being here in India where these three C's, when applied to everyday activities, are in limited- almost extinct- supply.
Even before touching down in India, the trip began with Sam and her meticulous planning almost two years ago. She had always harboured dreams of going, finding enlightenment and reliving the traveler's life free from want and desire. Her aspirations to travel were ostensibly shelved due to her inhumane work schedule and other time commitments- and I would like to think meeting me was a larger factor. I, on the other hand, knew that India was spelled I N D I A and that was basically my background. It was not until I traveled to China that my focus was redirected really to India as a destination. One traveler succinctly stated that "if I thought China is crazy, wait till you see India." There it was: the seed of adventure, mystery and fear was planted.
I do agree, as does Sam, with this statement from this clairvoyant traveler; India, as many travelers bemoan or exalt, is frustratingly crazy: the gamut of emotions ranging from elation, sadness, animosity, understanding, obstinacy, withdrawal, desire and acceptance. A mosaic of feelings that usually are experienced before mid-day. As for coming here, I believe that we were searching for that essence of India that we heard so much about: attainment of enlightenment. However, I have felt nothing of the sort. What I do feel is more battle hardened, a crafty veteran of travel, which could be enlightenment. India provokes your deepest sensations and forces you to "come alive," so to speak. I was aware of my sphere of consciousness the entire time I traveled here: constantly on guard- good and bad- and entirely enveloped by all senses at once. As Wayne, my English friend aptly said, "India is like running a gauntlet."It forces you to interact on a daily basis. I found this deeply troubling sometimes since my interaction invariably involved people in poverty or people who just wanted money from case and point. In no way does my six weeks provide me with an insider's scope to what it is like to be in India. I realize we traveled the well beaten path by many and our experience was inexorably a traveler's experience on the tourist path where these dealings with the aforementioned characters occur on a regular basis. Yet, this does not weaken my perspective or make my time here worthless. Our trip opened the debate to being human, interacting on the human level. It is hard to shun a three year beggar under the auspices that giving two rupees only furthers their dependence on obtaining money through begging. It is hard to be so stoic in front of these people, so cold and numb to their plight. On the other side, I was shown great care and genuine concern for my well being by many people, strangers or people working in tourism. Indians took special interest in our travels and were quick to ask how we liked India. If any answer had slight negative undertones, these people took this as an offense equal to treason that we have had a bad time and I am fairly certain that, on the drop of a hat, would make sure that we did enjoy being here if we let them. As one person explained the mentality is that " we (travelers) are guests here and it is important for us to treat you as such." There was such genuine interest in our well being that it was almost smothering.
I don't subscribe to the notion that India is tough place to be. I look back at my earlier musings and apprehension and smile at my preoccupations before coming here. I know that I have come along way; as yesterday we met two English guys who just arrived. They looked as we did when we first arrived: uncertain, timid, lost and exuded a certain oh my god what have we gotten ourselves into vibe. We weren't any different. We imparted as much information, tricks of the trade, to ease their emotional tumult, and in a way, this seemed slightly cathartic. All the frustrations were compiled into hilarious anecdotes and advisories and I have begun to appreciate being here.
I think that I built up the notion that India will change you . I was, and still am, resistant to that idea. This has not been any different that any other place I have been in terms of annoying and enthralling instances. India has strengthened my resolve to go live abroad for more time- I am frothing at the mouth to go to Latin America. Undoubtedly, traveling to India has tested my every fiber and now, I crave a little home cooking. My time here has made me appreciate the little things about being in Australia or in the US, but on the flip side, has made me revise what is important. This has been another fundamental step towards (gulp) maturation. I wouldn't go out on a limb to say I am definitely going to return to India in the near future, but being here has supplied me with more knowledge which would have been ignored by me.
So, it is not with a heavy heart that I leave here- the heaviness can be attributed to the goodies I got for people- I depart with a stronger resolve to continue to test my ability to adapt and understand cultures, but more importantly, understand where I fit in this grand scheme. I know this will all help in the mythical outcome that is something that starts with "J" and rhymes with "OB."
As for the next stop on the Duncan-Hitch train, Chicago. Let's see how re immersion fairs us.
Sunday, April 5, 2009
Almost there
We have reunited finally. After ten days of mystery, Sam has emerged from her cocoon of OMMMMMMMMs, meditation and silence and has burst through the protective casing a new and vibrant girl. She was ready to spread her proverbial wings and tackle new stressful and frustrating situations like a Buddhist ninja, slicing through the annoyances with ease. However, India, and more importantly, the transportation realm has endless reinforcements of situations that perturb, rattle and want-to-make-you-grab-the-person-who-is-talking-and-shake-some-common-sense-or-at-least-get-a-straight-answer-for-all-that-is-holy. I was relieved to see her to say the least. Protocol and cultural awareness be damned, when we met for the first time, we re-enacted that famous photograph from V-day 1945 in NYC in front of some shocked, but more likely, perverted male audience.
She told me all about her time in the center. She learned all about how to release stress and practiced these techniques for 10 hours a day. For those mathematicians at home that is 100 hours of meditation for Sam. She also, hilariously enough, learned about the art of what Indian food does to one's digestive system when untreated. It seems as though Sam's mind and body had similar thoughts as when Sam was mediating and attempting to clear her mind of all thoughts, her bowels were trying to do the same thing in a non medidative way. She is a strong girl. The probable cause of the irritability was the food and water at the center, which as I understand, made rice cakes look like a culinary explosion; I guess to meditate, rice gruel moves you closer to nirvana.
Our plan was to go from Jaipur to Agra- to see what this hubbub about the Taj was about- and then to Delhi. We were on a tight schedule so time was of the essence. We took a local bus, which promised to take five hours; seven hours later we arrived in Agra. For those 100 hours, Sam had mastered and understood the importance of feeling your senses, vanquishing all stress and allowing frustrating events pass. By the first stop- over 40 minutes- Sam's hair- already longer than normal- was a mess, loud sighs and mutterings began to escape from her. At least the program was free, so I guess it was money well spent.
All jokes aside, she is better and has scaled back what the center called "attachment." I have noticed change and a mellowing of her persona, which was the initial attraction for her to this place. We did have scary moment when there was a huge BANG outside and two windows blew out on the bus. Nothing serious honestly; a tire of a truck blew out next to the bus causing the noise and destruction, but the remarkable aspect of this episode was Sam's reaction, or lack thereof. She was cool and collected whereas before this would have led to a panic attack-especially here. I myself, was a bit unnerved, but all was well.
As we polished off the Taj and headed to Delhi, we had one final moment where Sam's training failed her. We booked a pre-paid rickshaw, yet no driver would drive us. Most looked at our slip- it was short distance to our destination- and scoffed at driving us since it was not a "big chauna of a drive". I felt we had some contagious disease and nobody wanted to fraternize with us at all. This marked the first time we have wanted to be hassled and our reception was frigid. Most of the time, the touts compete in the Olympic event: 100 meter sprint to the foreigner. It was disorienting- to make matters worse, we were hungry and frazzled from the whole day's journey. Sam, after 10 minutes of fruitless searching, marched to the pre-paid booth and unleashed barbs that probably felt good after 10 days of silence. To the consternation of one driver, he was forced reluctantly to take this supposedly stress free girl and bald man to our desired location.
As for me, to step back into the past, I enjoyed my final days in Jaisalmer thanks to a great camel safari. I went alone and slept under the stars. I had a chance to escape the rush of India and appreciate silence, camping and that riding on a camel will never be high on my list of things to do again. I mean almost immediately my butt hurt in the saddle. I was only on for a total of 4 hours, but god bless those people who trek for two days. Girdhar, the camel driver, had Raj, the camel, run arbitrarily provoking searing pain in the rumpus; while exciting I was smiling as though I was having a kidney operation on the camel.
My time there was worth it and the ten days alone. I learned new things about me- bargaining has never been my strong suit. I met some great people, Wayne and Michelle among others, and I feel my time alone was important for our next phase in Guatemala.
She told me all about her time in the center. She learned all about how to release stress and practiced these techniques for 10 hours a day. For those mathematicians at home that is 100 hours of meditation for Sam. She also, hilariously enough, learned about the art of what Indian food does to one's digestive system when untreated. It seems as though Sam's mind and body had similar thoughts as when Sam was mediating and attempting to clear her mind of all thoughts, her bowels were trying to do the same thing in a non medidative way. She is a strong girl. The probable cause of the irritability was the food and water at the center, which as I understand, made rice cakes look like a culinary explosion; I guess to meditate, rice gruel moves you closer to nirvana.
Our plan was to go from Jaipur to Agra- to see what this hubbub about the Taj was about- and then to Delhi. We were on a tight schedule so time was of the essence. We took a local bus, which promised to take five hours; seven hours later we arrived in Agra. For those 100 hours, Sam had mastered and understood the importance of feeling your senses, vanquishing all stress and allowing frustrating events pass. By the first stop- over 40 minutes- Sam's hair- already longer than normal- was a mess, loud sighs and mutterings began to escape from her. At least the program was free, so I guess it was money well spent.
All jokes aside, she is better and has scaled back what the center called "attachment." I have noticed change and a mellowing of her persona, which was the initial attraction for her to this place. We did have scary moment when there was a huge BANG outside and two windows blew out on the bus. Nothing serious honestly; a tire of a truck blew out next to the bus causing the noise and destruction, but the remarkable aspect of this episode was Sam's reaction, or lack thereof. She was cool and collected whereas before this would have led to a panic attack-especially here. I myself, was a bit unnerved, but all was well.
As we polished off the Taj and headed to Delhi, we had one final moment where Sam's training failed her. We booked a pre-paid rickshaw, yet no driver would drive us. Most looked at our slip- it was short distance to our destination- and scoffed at driving us since it was not a "big chauna of a drive". I felt we had some contagious disease and nobody wanted to fraternize with us at all. This marked the first time we have wanted to be hassled and our reception was frigid. Most of the time, the touts compete in the Olympic event: 100 meter sprint to the foreigner. It was disorienting- to make matters worse, we were hungry and frazzled from the whole day's journey. Sam, after 10 minutes of fruitless searching, marched to the pre-paid booth and unleashed barbs that probably felt good after 10 days of silence. To the consternation of one driver, he was forced reluctantly to take this supposedly stress free girl and bald man to our desired location.
As for me, to step back into the past, I enjoyed my final days in Jaisalmer thanks to a great camel safari. I went alone and slept under the stars. I had a chance to escape the rush of India and appreciate silence, camping and that riding on a camel will never be high on my list of things to do again. I mean almost immediately my butt hurt in the saddle. I was only on for a total of 4 hours, but god bless those people who trek for two days. Girdhar, the camel driver, had Raj, the camel, run arbitrarily provoking searing pain in the rumpus; while exciting I was smiling as though I was having a kidney operation on the camel.
My time there was worth it and the ten days alone. I learned new things about me- bargaining has never been my strong suit. I met some great people, Wayne and Michelle among others, and I feel my time alone was important for our next phase in Guatemala.
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